Re: [Harp-L] wireless rigs for JT30

["Mike Curtis.-0.pl" <ironmanmc@xxxxxxx>]

On  Apr 1, 2005, at 1:48 PM, Bob Maglinte wrote:


> ----- Original Message ----- From: "drori hammer" 
> <drori_hammer@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 11:54 AM
> Subject: [Harp-L] wireless rigs for JT30fr
>
>
> > Hi
> > I have gone back to playing with my old JT30 mic, after a few years 
> > of trying other stuff - and I am thinking of upgrading my stage show 
> > by switching to wireless
> > Can anyone give me any tips on good, affordable wireless setups that 
> > work well with the Astatic JT30 ?

The JT-30 needs a megohm or higher input impedance to have that "big 
tone".  Fortunately, most guitar wireless fall into this category.  
I've had great results using cheap Nady's (Wireless One, Wireless 3D).  
I recently bought an AKG PR40 guitar "bug" wireless.  The transmitter 
is very small and gets around 12 hours from a single AAA cell.  is very 
small and plugs directly into my mic (which has a 1/4" jack).  The 
receiver is likewise very small, and runs on a pair of AAA cells.  This 
is incredible for jams and such.  You can mount the receiver inside 
your amp, although I prefer keeping it separate so I can adjust the 
receiver position for best reception.

Wireless are available on VHF (very high frequency) and UHF (ultra high 
frequency) models.  Generally speaking, UHF is better, getting better 
range and having less interference.  Andf of course, they usually cost 
more.

You'll mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm            see some receivers with two 
antennas.  Usually, this means that they're Diversity receivers.   But 
some are not.  If they are, it'll say "Diversity" in the literature, 
and probably on the receiver.  These have two separate radio front 
ends, and chooses the antenna/receiver with the best signal.  In 
theory, these work better than single ended receivers.  This of course 
costs more.

> > Also, my guitarist already uses a wireless - should I be concerned 
> > about having different frequencies or something ? (I have no idea how 
> > these things work)

Yes, be concerned.  His wireless will have a colored tag (i.e. gray, 
blue, red, etc.) on it somewhere.  This will show the frequency.  Get 
something on a different frequency.  There are quite a few channels.

Oh - and always bring fresh batteries - and a spare mic cable, just in 
case things go wrong - and they will.  If you play out enough, you'll 
eventually run into someone else on your channel.

Being a cheapskate, I prefer rechargeables.   Ray-O-Vac has some AA'a 
and AAA's that recharge in a scant 15 minutes.  These cost more than 
cheapie NiMH or NiCd, but as many times


> > Thanks!
> Hi,
> Do you have the older type with a screw on connector or the ones made 
> since the mid to late 80's w     ith the XLR 3-pin connector?? I have 
> all of mine with a screw on connector, so I can use an adapter that 
> allows me to use a guitar cable, and so I'd go with a guitar setup. 
> Now which one for the cheap? I'd make sure that it uses a different 
> frequency than you guitarist uses or it's gonna be holy hell on the 
> bandstand and both signals are gonna be a mess. Make sure it has true 
> diversity, meaning two channels, so that if there's a dropout in the 
> signal, it will automatically switch to the channel with the strongest 
> signal. Be sure to have batteries on hand because they can, ESPECIALLY 
> in wireless units made prior to the mid 90's, drain batteries as 
> quickly as digital effects pedals can (damned near a battery a gig), 
> and when you're not playing, shut the transmitter off ASAP to cut 
> battery drain

Yup, especially if you use rechargeables.  alkalines drop voltage 
consistently over their lifespan.  NiCd/NiMH's don 't drop in voltage 
until they're almost totally discharged.  9 volt rechargeables are 
usually 7.2  volts.  The battery warning light on my wireless turns on 
at 7.0 volts.  By this time, I have one song left, if that.

NiMH b atteries are much better than N[Cd.  They generally take a 
higher charge, and don't have memory effect.  If you use a NiCd 1 hour 
each time, eventually that's all the charge it will accept.

> All wireless units will alter the signal in varying degrees, some will 
> boost/cut treble, some bass, etc., and some of those things will also 
> depend on acoustic conditions of where you play in addition, and the 
> strength of the battery being used in the transmitter, and NEVER get 
> batteries that aren't alkaline or titanium, with titanium the longest 
> lasting of them all or they'll get sucked dry quickly and it will 
> affect the signal strength as well as the tone. You will have to turn 
> the amp up a bit, much as if you had been using a cable of over 20 
> feet in length, so don't get freaked out about that. You will need to 
> try them out for yourself in a store before buying anything, and I 
> strongly urge you to try as many different units as possible first 
> because of the reasons I mentioned.
>
> If you buy one used, I would avoid buying any wireless made prior to 
> 1995 because they tend to drain batteries 2-3 times more quickly than 
> the newer units, and avoid the ones that are actually running on a CB 
> radio frequency like a Nady 49, which ran on a 49mhz radio signal, 
> which trucker CB's and police radios are usually on or risk the signal 
> getting lost when one of those drives by. Most of the better quality 
> wireless units have a range in the line of sight (ideal conditions) of 
> up 300-500 feet depending on the unit you choose to buy, and the one I 
> have is a Nady Wireless 3D model I                                     
>           bought 10 years ago, which was one of the very last units 
> being made where you could in the line of sight, actually go as far as 
> 1500 feet away (and I've put it to the test). If you play outdoors, if 
> the wind is strong enough, in the right conditions, the signal can get 
> blown around some by the wind.
>
> One other thing to remember if you start using them on a regular basis 
> is that when you get towards the edge of its range, you'll often find 
> your signal a beat behind, so you may want to be aware of that first.

Yup.  Sound travels about 1129 feet per second, assuming sea level and 
a buncha other stuff we need not cloud the waters with right now.  This 
 compares reasonably close to delay expressed as milliseconds (1 foot 
is fairly close to 1 mSec.  If the delay is under 35 ms, it makes the 
harp, etc., sund like two are playing in unison (aka doubling).  Over 
35 msec giv es a slapback effect (a la earlier
Elvis Presley.  Higher values give a more noticeable delay.  if you 
don't stray afar, don't concern yourself.  If you do, you can 
anticipate the delay.

A good way around this is to use a wireless (in-ear) monitor.  But if 
you thought wireless guitars were expensive ......



-IronMan Mike Curtis
http://www.IronmanCurtis.com
http://www.SouthlandBlues.com