Re: Clipping Reeds

[Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx>]

On Mar 31, 2004, at 12:27 PM, Mark Stafford wrote:

>
> I have had tremendous success with all my repairs on Diatonics through 
> the past decade or so, using the F.&R Farrell method of screws and 
> nuts.
>
> Reeds have been salvaged from used harps.
>
> Now I am short of certain reeds. In particular, A draw 4 and 5, and Bb 
> draw 4 and 5.
>
> I have used up all the cross references as well. (different key harps)
>
> If anyone can offer insight into a system for "clipping reeds" I would 
> very much appreciate that.
>
> Please contact me "Off List".
>
>
> Thank You
> Mark bird Stafford
>
   Is that "Guy" still around? Is it safe to come out?

   Hi "Bird Man". How's the weather up in Canuckia?

  About the reeds. It's NO problem to make a higher pitched reed from a 
lower one, it just take s a little work.
  1. Let's say you have a reed that's a little lower AND the lengths are 
the same. Install the new reed, place 1/2 of a double edge razor blade 
under the reed you want to tune and OVER the reeds on both sides. Then 
it's just a matter of filing (from tip toward rivet). Depending on how 
much you want to take off, try and stay near the reed tip as much as 
possible.
2. Let's say the replacement reed has a weighted tip. This one is 
easier, just take off weight till pitch is reached.
3. Let's say the reed is LONGER. A pair of cuticle snips (NOT 
fingernail cutters) will take off a little off the tip. I always leave 
extra and go the rest of the way with a file. I clean up all edges with 
450 (or higher) grit emory "auto body" paper. I also use "slips" made 
from taking 10 popsicle sticks, clamp them, coat one EDGE with contact 
cement, press the stick's edges on a piece of fine emory and after the 
whole thing "sets", slide an exacto blade between the sticks and you 
have 10 sticks with abrasive on the THIN edge (which is just the size 
for working reeds.

  Bringing a reed UP simply requires ADDING weight to the tip. I NEVER 
EVER take metal from the root end, this weakens (an already suspect) 
"Pad to Shank" juncture. P.S. I use tin solder, or nail polish.

  Of course, while I am doing reeds, I FIRST like to remove any SCARS 
left from the factory tuning. Also check the "root" (where the reed 
starts out from the PAD). Many times the factory has "gouged" too far 
into the brass when they started to grind that reed and the STEP down 
forms a weak spot. Almost every time I have seen a cracked reed it has 
been at this particular spot.

  smokey-joe (& the Cafe s)