Re: Screw On Cable



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> =
http://bwcecom.belden.com/MASTER%20CATALOG%20PDF/PDFS_links%20to%20docs/1=
2_Broadcast/12.3_12.9.pdf
> http://www.acksupply.com/catalog/wire.pdf
>=20
> Found these, Is this the cable ? I have 2 of those connectors I was =
going to
> hook up ,,,but your post was very timely as to the information on =
doing
> that.
> Thanks
> BT
>=20
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: "Bob Maglinte" <bbqbob917@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <RHartt1234@xxxxxxx>
> Cc: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: Screw On Cable
>=20
>=20
> >
> > Hi Ryan,
> > On these types of cables that use the Switchcraft MC1F screw on =
connector,
> > two things have been problematic over the years. One is that getting =
wire
> > that fits SNUGLY thru the ground spring, and the other is that the =
ground
> > wire of the cable has to be soldered on to the top of the ground =
spring.
> The
> > newer production cables have been hit or miss when it comes to this =
as I
> > have a pair of these. What I suggest doing is remove the the set =
screw,
> then
> > unsolder the lead wire of the cable so the cable is free of the =
connector
> > and then take a look at how  the ground wire is set with the ground
> spring.
> > The newer cables tend to be a bit thinner, and so you unsolder the =
ground
> > wire from the spring and remove the cable. Next, get a small amount =
of
> > electrical tape so that it fits thru the ground spring extremely =
tight.
> Once
> > this is done, put the cable thru the ground spring and then sand or =
file
> the
> > beginning quarter inch of the top of the ground spring. Once this is
> > complete, place the ground wire over the top and then the rest of it
> between
> > the first 2 coils of the spring. Then solder the ground wire to the
> spring,
> > and then resolder the lead wire to the connector and then while =
holding
> the
> > spring tightly towards the top of the connector, put back the gset =
screw
> so
> > that it is firmly in place. This should solve many of the headaches.
> >
> > During the 70's to mid 80's, rather than buy commercially made =
cables,
> which
> > often times were lacking even then, I used to go to electronics =
stores
> > (these days, thery're far different than they were then, as they =
mainly
> > cater to computer related stuff these days), and buy the necessary
> > connectors and jacks, and got 20, but not more than 25 feet of raw =
Belden
> > 8410 cable, which was both heavily shielded and used rubber jackets, =
as
> > opposed to the plastic that's more commonly used these days, and I =
used to
> > make them myself. The toughest part of the process was getting the =
cable
> > thru the ground spring because that was far thicker cable than =
what's
> > presently available. These were far better quality than what's =
around now,
> > and because of the rubber jacket, the cable would NEVER kink and =
ALWAYS
> > could be counted on to lie flat and makezero noise while handling =
it, and
> > also were damned near indestructible. I know of no place at the =
moment
> that
> > still stocks this particular Belden wire number these days, and if =
anyone
> > out there knows who stocks it, let me know, because I'd jump on it =
in a
> > hurry.
> >
> > Anyway, hope this helps.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Barbeque Bob Maglinte
> > Boston, MA
> >   ----- Original Message -----=20
> >   From: RHartt1234@xxxxxxx
> >   To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
> >   Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:50 AM
> >   Subject: Screw On Cable
> >
> >
> >          I have a newer cable with a screw on connector. No matter =
how
> hard
> > I jam the cable into the connector and crank down on the set screw =
it's
> > loose enough where as soon as the weight of the cable is pulling =
down the
> > cable cuts out.
> >          Any tips?
> >          Ryan
> >
> > --
> > Harp-l is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
> > Hosted by ValuePricehosting.com, http://www.valuepricehosting.com
> 





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