Re: Harp Tuners



The Gatorman writes:
>it's not under $75 (more like $80), but the boss tu-12h is a good choice. 
>make sure you get the "h" model, as this accepts the higher notes a harp will 
>produce. 

I don't recommend the TU-12H for harmonicas, mostly because, while it has the 
additional range for the higher notes, it has to be switched manually between 
normal and high range.  For about the same money you can get a Korg DT-3, which 
accommodates the range of a harmonica (up to C8) without the need to switch 
it.  The DT-3 also allows recentering of the tuning range from about A=430 to 
A=450, and can display variations in pitch in either hertz or cents (I prefer 
cents, since they don't vary from note to note).  I haven't tried the Seiko 
tuner that Alec recommends, though I have a high regard for other Seiko 
products.

A couple of points about tuning harps: first, make sure the batteries in the 
tuner are fresh, or better yet, use a power supply.  Low batteries are most 
obvious in the failure of the internal mic to pick up the sound of the note 
properly.  An external mic can improve this situation, but if the tuner's 
batteries are low you shouldn't trust the readings.  Second, a tuner should 
only be the starting place for tuning a harp, and the final judgement should be 
made with your ears.  TURN OFF THE CEILING FAN.  Listening for beats in a chord 
or octave is damn near impossible if you have an air column oscillator (fan) 
going nearby.  I have been known to shut myself in the closet on hot summer 
days while tuning to avoid all the noise of fans.  The sacrifices we make for 
the art! ;-)

Also, you will probably find that the pitch of a reed you are adjusting will 
change as you sound it, as the reeds warm.  This seems to be more prevalent on 
blow reeds, I speculate because drawing air over a reed maintains the flow of 
room-temperature air, where blowing air come from your body.  Particularly when 
adjusting octaves you'll find that the pitch will "settle" after playing for a 
few seconds.  And finally, precise adjustments in pitch need to be made with as 
many final conditions of the harp in place as possible.  By this I mean, 
mostly, that the covers need to be in place, even if they are only held on with 
the hands.  Pitch can change dramatically between playing the harp without the 
covers and playing with them.  I usually get the harp close with the tuner on 
the first pass, make a second pass adjusting the octaves and chords without the 
tuner (maybe using it to clue me as to which reed in a chord is off in which 
direction), then check the results holding the covers in place, and make 
adjustments as necessary.  

- -tim
www.workingmansharps.com





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