Re: Valves/Windsavers from Hohner

[Jack Ely <IMS_ELY@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

From: koryta@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

>Subject: Re: Valves/Windsavers from Hohner
>
>Could someone post an Ascii sketch or something showing just where this
>piece of mylar is installed? I'm still unclear and don't own a valved unit
>to open and look at. Thanks.
>
>Jim
             Here's an attempt at an ASCII drawing of a valve - je
          (Sorry, ASCII tools don't allow for much accuracy or scale)

                         Originally posted 05-Mar-1993

  (A)         (B)             (C)                                   (D)       
           +-----+       ++-----++--+----------+                 +-+
     rivet |     |       ||     ||  +-Glue     |                ||/++
   o<-hole |  O <-rivet  ||  O  ||  | Area     |        dimple->++-+++
           |     | head  ||     ||--+          |        in valve++-+++<-Rivet
+-----+    ++   ++       |++   ++|             |                ||/||   Head
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||             |                ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||             |                ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    Valve is Slightly         ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    wider & longer than       ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    reed slot so that it      ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    blocks air flow when      ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    other reed in cell is     ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    operating.                ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    i.e. Blowing blocks the   ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    draw reed, Drawing        ||/||
|     |    ||   ||       |||   |||    blocks the blow reed.     ||/||
|     |    |+---+|       ||+---+||             |                ||/||
+-----+    +-----+       |+-----+|             |                ||/||<- Reed
   |          |          +-------+-------------+         Valve->||/++
 Empty slot Reed riveted     |                                  |+++
 in reed    in place.     Valve/Windsaver glued                   +Reed plate
 plate                    in place from opposite side         SIDE VIEW


(A) Empty slot (aperture) in reed plate.

(B) Reed riveted in place - must swing (vibrate) freely through aperture.

(C) The valve or windsaver is attached on the opposite side of the reed plate 
that the reed is on. Draw reed valves are on the inside, blow reed valves are 
on the outside and are visible. The valve is forced away from the reed being 
played so it does not interfere. The valve on the other reed in the cell is 
forced closed (flat) covering the aperture and preventing air leakage, giving 
better response. Use a contact type cement to replace valves. Dr. Harp says 
"Goodyear Plyobond is good if you leave it half dry in the bottle. New Plyobond 
is too stringy; when these nearly invisible strings trail across a windsaver 
they can cause trouble." Dr. Harp prefers Weldit - available from Woolworth.
	
	There is nothing new or revolutionary about valves on a harmonica; 
except perhaps for the reasoning behind placing them on a diatonic - Any decent 
diatonic harp has good response without valves - they aren't needed because the 
reeds are small and don't leak enough air to do harm. But where they make a 
difference is in bending and overblowing. Chromatics, on the other hand, have 
several large reeds and aren't worth a hoot (pun intended) without valves - at 
least on most of the reeds. Chromatics have had valves since the 20's or 30's. 
Early valves were made of leather and in fact were called leathers. Now they 
are made of genuine plastic (pun also intended). Valves are often the cause of 
problems in a harmonica, they can stick or not lie flat and cause buzzing or 
popping sounds.

(D) Picture D is a side view showing the reed on one side and the valve on the 
other side. The "dimple" in the valve is so it will fit over the end of the 
rivet and lie flat. Most commercially available valves have this dimple. If 
not, firm pressure will make one for you. This should be done dry before you 
apply the cement. Some valves are two piece - one layer to seal and the top 
layer to reinforce and make it lie flat. Get out one of your old clunkers and 
try putting on a windsaver. You can make your own out of various materials - a 
strip cut off a crisp dollar bill works pretty well - or try some various 
plastic material. For serious work though I recommend you buy some valves. I 
hope this drawing helps.
								Jack Ely