Re: [Harp-L] Reed screws



I'll punch  in on this... I  thread the brass plate and use stainless steel
screws.  I have never yet stripped the plate.

On Saturday, November 16, 2013, Vern wrote:

> It depends on what you mean by "permanently installing the screw or
> threaded rod".
>
>  If the screw that you refer to is a flat-head SS screw with its head in a
> countersink on the back side of the plate (as Farrell did), then there is
> less chance of stripping the threads when you tighten the nut.  This is
> true not because of the mechanical arrangement but because the threads are
> all steel which is much stronger than brass. A disadvantage of using
> flat-head screws with nuts is that the countersink locates the screw.  If
> you put the countersink in the wrong place, then the screw is forever in
> the wrong place too.
>
> If the "threaded rod" that you refer to is screwed into a threaded hole in
> the plate, then there is just as great a chance of stripping the threads in
> the hole as you tighten the nut as when you tighten a screw.  This is
> because the weakest threads most likely to strip are the brass ones in the
> hole.
>
> Threads strip when they fail in shear as the tension in the shaft becomes
> too great.  This can occur as you tighten either a screw or a nut.
>
> In any case, stripping of threads is the result of over-tightening the
> screw or nut.  It is better to gently tighten the screw or nut and then
> lock it in place with a tiny drop of Loctite or super-glue. If the reed is
> attached tightly enough so that its base stays in contact with the plate
> and doesn't rattle…then that is tight enough.
>
> Vern
>
> On Nov 13, 2013, at 9:48 AM, Winslow Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
>
> > While screws without nuts are simpler, screws with nuts have an
> advantage if you replace or reinstall a reed in the same slot more than
> once. Each time you remove and re-install a screw, you risk stripping the
> thread cut in the rivet hole in the reedplate. Permanently installing the
> screw - or threaded rod - and fastening the reed with a nut allows multiple
> reed installations without stripping the threading in the reedplate hole.
> >
> > Winslow Yerxa
> > Author, Harmonica For Dummies, ISBN 978-0-470-33729-5
> >             Harmonica Basics For Dummies, ASIN B005KIYPFS
> >             Blues Harmonica For Dummies, ISBN 978-1-1182-5269-7
> > Resident Harmonica Expert, bluesharmonica.com
> > Instructor, Jazzschool for Music Study and Performance
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Vern <jevern@xxxxxxx <javascript:;>>
> > To: daledut <daledut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <javascript:;>>
> > Cc: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx <javascript:;>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 9:28 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Reed screws
> >
> >
> > There is a third option for using screws.  Use 0-80 screws and cut the
> threads in the plate using a tap.  0-80 screws are easy to find and
> relatively inexpensive.  Not having to fiddle with nuts is also an
> advantage.  Using screws in a chromatic is more involved because any screw
> protrusion on the back side of the plates interferes with the attachment of
> valves.
> >
> > Vern
> >
> >
> >
> > On Nov 13, 2013, at 8:03 AM, daledut <daledut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
> >
> >> I saw a video of Brendan Powers replacing reeds on a suzuki harmonica.
> He was using suzuki self tapping screws. Does anyone know where to get
> these or similar screws? Also is there a preference of screw and nut over
> self tapping ?
> >> Dale
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>

-- 
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