Re: [Harp-L] 0-80 x 1/16" screws for reed replacements

[Larry Sandy <slyou65@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks Vern.  I just placed an order for 500 1/16" machine screws and if/when I get them ( as verification the supplier will actually supply us) I will post all pertinent information on Harp-L for all to see.  I also use 1/8", and other sizes which I obtained at our local Fastenal dealer.  Fastenal, incedentally, cannot get 1/16" screws now, per two of their employees.  I found these .80 X 1/16" SS for - hold your hat- less than 2 cents each, plus UPS.
Persistence pays.
 
Lockjaw Larry
 


--- On Tue, 2/26/13, Vern <jevern@xxxxxxx> wrote:


From: Vern <jevern@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] 0-80 x 1/16" screws for reed replacements
To: "Harp L Harp L" <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tuesday, February 26, 2013, 11:04 AM


I use 0-80 x 1/8 SS screws that are available in quantities of 100 @ 7c ea.  from McMaster Carr.

I use them on chromatics which require that the tips of screws be flush with the plate where the valve is glued on. I suppose that diatonics can tolerate some protrusion of the screws beyond the plate.

This means that 1/16 = .0625" screws are too long.  The ideal length would be the thickness of the reed-plate  (.040") + the thickness of the reed (.012") = .052"  which is, of course, not a standard length. I sometimes use a .015" washer under the screw head for which a 1/16" screw would be too short.   I posit that no standard length will be satisfactory.  

Solution 1.
I have ground diagonal cutters so that the cutting edge is at the very edge of the jaws, like this:  \ /  they were formerly like this: > <.
I after attaching the reed, I nip off the part that protrudes from the other side of the plate.  This leaves a small burr that I remove with just a touch of a Dremel abrasive wheel.

Solution 2. 
Some technicians object to Solution 1.  because there is a danger of marking the plate with the abrasive wheel. For them I suggest using Solution 1. on a scrap plate, then transferring the screw.

Solution 3.
I made a tool for shearing off an 0-80 screw to any precise length.  Because I used a table-top milling machine, various bits, propane torch, a fire brick, SS foil, and tool steel material; this approach may not be open to everyone.  However, those interested in replacing reeds are technicians, many of whom have such tools.

Anyone interested can email me off-list for pictures of the modified diagonal cutters and/or the shearing tool.

Vern