Re: [Harp-L] XB40s and CX12s



John, I felt the same way about CX12 until I half-valved it. I find that there is no good rule of thumb on which blow valves to remove - it works differently on different reeds, different harps and different keys. Does not work for some harps at all - if they are leaky to begin with. However, my absolute favorite CX12 in D  kept original valves on holes 1,2,3,4, and 8. The rest was removed(blow only). CX12 is so tight that there is no difference in
reed response. No negative difference that is. As to positives - not a single "pop" in ten years of daily play. Diatonic-style bends on the draw! Harder attack is possible! I must admit, may be I got accustomed to the slight difference of reed responce over the years. But if I did - it happened so fast, that in my memory I remember no inferior reed behavior, like less air-tightness, or any other negative. The way I did it, was to individually test every hole and see if I can "live" with that reed with a valve removed. Just blow into the hole while lfting the valve with a blade, effectively disabling it. See if you like it. Remove the valve that you feel does not do much. Some valves will be important to keep - I'm not a tech to explain why, but you'll see for yourself. Whatever number of valves you remove, all goes to reduce and in my case eliminate the poping/sticking valves entirely. Only(mostly) blow valves stick.
For me, mostly in mid register, where it actually is mostly safe to remove them. 


I find it weird how every particular harp is so unique in this matter - leather valves, plastic, wood combs, alum vs brass plates, billion factors that influence the outcome. I still am puzzled by a simple Hohner 280 with a plastic body & valves that never, never ever stick! Did not remove any from CBH, though some stick at time, but rarely so I let it be. Some sound so weak even with valves, they'd be unplayable without valves. But CX12 is the best candidate for this procedure. It now is a sure 1st choice as my chromatic, on and off  stage. 

PS 
If you are careful removing valves, you can always put them back on, it really is simple enough for ANYbody to do, no special skills whatsoever.

Mike.



This archive was generated by a fusion of Pipermail 0.09 (Mailman edition) and MHonArc 2.6.8.