[Harp-L] Reed replacement screws, part numbers and technique



In an earlier post I mistakenly said I used 1-72, that's not correct (I use that size for replacing nails inside the MB's). The screws I use to fasten reeds directly to the reed plate are M1.4, the same thread size as Harponline uses. I started replacing reeds using the Harponline system, but for convenience I now order my reed screws from QTE North America. They do not look like the picture on the website, they have either a pan head or binding head (not sure what the difference is) with a slotted drive. Whatever it is they have a nice head that offers a large clamping surface, while staying within the edges of the reed wrench. The only problem I've had with these is the occasional rogue screw with an unthreaded shoulder that's long enough to prevent clamping the reed down before the screw stops. Less than 5 out of a 100, but watch out for them.

Screws, part number 80086, $9.95 per 100
https://qtena.com/stainless-steel-hinge-screws-14mm-25mm-head-p-3624.html


Thread tap, $15.95 (3) pack, part number 56014 https://qtena.com/plug-pack-p-4685.html

They also have star nuts and the nutdriver if one desires to use them.

The numbered drills needed for the 1.4 screws:

tap hole (in the reed plate) #56 drill bit
clearance hole (in the reed) #53 drill bit

It's also a good idea to get a 1.4mm reamer, I got mine from Harponline. I very lightly use the reamer after drilling the reed plate, to make sure the hole is round (it makes for a better job of thread cutting and is easier on the tap). After all the drilling and tapping, I lightly chamfer the holes with a countersink (got mine from McMaster Carr) to make sure there's no burrs distancing the reed from the plate. You'll also need some pin vises to hold the tap, reamer, and countersink. I use a drill press for drilling operations, for straight holes. Oh yeah you'll need a little flat screwdriver from an eyeglass kit.

I snug the reed down and grind off the excess length protruding from the other side with a dremel cutting disc. Then I view the reed slots over a light box, while centering the reed with one hand and tightening the screw with the other. Double check your work for reed tightness and centering, and set the gap.

As I said before, I've had ZERO issues with thread failure using this method. I think Kinya Pollard may do it the same way, possibly with 0-80 screws though. However I have had problems with 00-90 hardware stripping using the nut/bolt method, plus the lack of 3 hands to tighten everything while centering the reed.

Good luck-
Joe Spiers
http://www.spiersharmonicas.com





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