Re: [Harp-L] Harmonicas available today




On Mar 26, 2009, at 12:07 PM, Abner Galdos wrote:

1) what Brands and Model do you like and why ?

There was a time when you didn't have a choice. It was a Hohner or nothing. Oh, there were other brands, but in the era before mail ordering, no one carried those brands. The usual starter diatonic was a Hohner Marine Band. There were at least 6-7 cheaper models, but WE play them the WRONG WAY, so, a Marine Band handled more stress.
1... My favorite brand..........Hohner
2... My favorite model..........Spl-20 (which IS a Marine Band sub- model)
(3)..For chromo....................Hering/Hohner 12 hole models


Why? The reedplates sit IN the plastic comb. They are relatively in tune, bendable out of the box. My only regret? The plastic comb has many hollowed out portions and they don't have the 'solid sound' I would prefer. It isn't the material. Vern says that doesn't matter. Well it DOES when the comb is a light hollow piece. It doesn't have that 'solid sound' that I (personally) would prefer.

2) What to look for in a Brand and Model ?

1...Bendability 2...Tone 3...ability to hold tune 4...be IN tune 5...be easy on the lips (for chromos.....excellent slide)

3) what keys should I get, in what order ?

Guitar accompaniment keys. D, A, C, G, Bb (for chromo, a C and a G)


4) When ordering from an on line site, what kind of warranty should we look for?

Don't expect warranties. We play diatonics the wrong way. Over the eons they (the famous 'they') have paid inventors and engineers billions of dollars/euros to develop items that do a specific job. Then, along comes Joe Schmutalatz and thinks he can improve it by doing this or that change. Harps are meant to be played in first position. In that regard, they can be warrantied. BUT (a very big but), we (the famous catch all..we) play them in 11 OTHER positions. So, even if you leave out overblows, you can't expect a constructor to finance your Frankenstein experiments.
Oh, and I almost forgot to add: If you persist in playing harps and harmonicas the wrong way..don't complain when they break.


5) Combs: wood,plastic,marble,gold,silver,paper,leather,bone,skin, how do they change the sound or do they ?

I happen to have a pourous bronze comb I like it a lot. It is very solid and metal gives a nice echo (or maybe an overtone) on the inhale notes. Bouncing off the walls of the channels?. I dunno? But I don't think it changes the blow notes? But I'm not a sound engineer and don't have a voice print analysis instrument.


For the general public, I recommend plastic. Milled SOLID plastic not moulded (with voids) plastic.

6) Reeds: Brass,steel,aluminum,plastic, paper, how does the material change the sound ?

Any spring metal will work. I have heard plastic also works, but I didn't like the sound. I have made reeds from Gillette super blue (steel), Schick copper clad (steel) and Wilkinson sword (stainless steel). But any temperable metal can be annealed into springs. Metals I would avoid? Sodium, Irridium, Uranium.


7) Screws on reeds: the more the better and if so why?

Rivets are fine for manufacturing. For repairs, I think screws are the better/easier avenue. As for the screws in the reedplates, number doesn't matter. It's where they are PLACED.


8) Reed cover: Nails that look like screws making one a fool trying to unscrew them, screws I have seen 2 or

ALL screws should be slotted. Phillips can strip, Forstners require a special driver. Who needs that aggravation.

9) Cover Plate: Material will this make a difference ?

It should. I had a friend who had ventilated white cow horn covers. The sound was dull. I prefer metal. I have made covers from several materials. They were all dull.

sMO-JOe (the man who took the harm out of harmonica)


abner (Blueyes, still asking, still confused)






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