[Harp-L] Re: Reed problem

[HTownFess <Spschndr@xxxxxxx>]

Rick, please clarify what you mean when you say the reed "played very
badly."  The phrase "blew out a reed" is best reserved for killing
reeds through fatigue; using a more precise term helps to avoid the
red herring problem.  Obstructed reeds are better referred to as
"jammed" or "stuck" or "hung up," etc.  Back to the reed "playing
badly": Does it buzz (obstruction), or does it play out of tune
(fatigue), or does it do both?  Check its state of tune by playing the
1/4D and 4/8D octaves.  Misalignment/obstruction should be visible, as
Winslow notes.

A blade-type feeler gauge set from the auto parts store is useful as a
starter tool for this situation, if used carefully--it's harder metal
than the reed or reedplate, so it's up to the user to avoid gouging
the softer stuff.  The thinnest blades (.0015" or .002" are common,
IIRC) can be slipped into the slot perpendicular to the reed and used
to lever the reed tip over slightly.  On rare occasions, healthy reeds
do shift around on their bases when played and go out of alignment in
the slot; other times, as noted, a fatigue crack can throw the reed
out of alignment along the way to total failure.  An Oskar reed wrench
is too big for a Hohner reed base, but does have enough leverage to
correct a slight Hohner misalignment sometimes.  If the problem is
only alignment, then the reed should play in pretty good tune once
shifted over.

The thinnest feeler blades are useful for lifting/plinking the blade
as suggested, and can also be used to shave the edge of the slot for
clearance as Winslow says.  Reedwork tools are a personal matter--
people evolve their own approach--but the feeler gauge set is widely
available.  Reeds aren't fragile if handled right, but one can use a
definitely dead harp carcass for practice in changing reed alignment
before addressing the patient that's currently on the operating table.

Cracks in a reed tend to be visible as a dark line, with enough
magnification.  There's a lot to be said for using 8x or 10x instead
of 2x when it comes to looking at reeds that closely: at least 4x
helps a lot.  Look at the reed near its base before and after the
plink-a-thon to see some of the life cycle of a reed crack, if indeed
it has fractured and is on the way out.

Stephen Schneider

On Apr 9, 2:33 pm, Rick Davis <bluesharpa...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Yesterday while practicing I blew out the 4-draw reed on a stock Special 20
> in the key of C.  First the reed seemed to stick for a second, then it
> played very badly.
>
> When I took the harp apart the reed appeared normal but seemed to barely
> touch the side of the reed slot.  I could not see a way to fix it
> without indlicting more damage on the fragile reed.  I didn't see any
> foreign matter on the reed or reed plate.  Rinsing the harp had no effect.
>
> Is this fixable?  What should I do the next time this happens?
>
> What about harps with replaceable reed plates.  I don't much care for the
> Hohner MS harps.  The Lee Oskar reed plates are much cheaper.  Do you have
> opinions regarding these systems?
>
> I very much appreciate any help you can offer, but please resist the urge to
> lecture me about playing too loud.  I play the way I play.  I'm looking for
> equipment solutions, not opinions about how to play the harp.  We could go
> for weeks on that red herring.
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