Re: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws



I don't mess with 00-90 nuts and flat-head screws. I use 0-80 screws threaded into the reedplate. I claim that the following is the best way to replace reeds.

1. Drill the reedplate through the existing "rivet" hole with a 3/64" drill, (tap drill for 0-80.)
2. Tap the hole 0-80. You can drive an 0-80 tap with a pin vise.
3. Drill the hole in the reed #52, clearance for an 0-80 screw.
4. Just screw the reed onto the plate with the screw head above the reed base.
5. With a Dremel abrasive wheel, cut & grind off any excess screw length on the back side of the plate.
6. When you get it playing sweetly, put a tiny drop of instant glue on the base of the reed & screw head on the side opposite the reed. Be careful NOT to use so much that it flows into the slot! I use a toothpick to apply the glue, not the spout on the glue tube.


Frequently, one will find (as in your case) that the screw doesn't exactly center the reed in the slot. In this case, use a needle file and "stretch" the hole in the reed so it can align with the slot. I made a little vise to hold the reed while I drill and file in its hole.

Using the above method, if you ruin a part, it is more likely to be the cheaper reed than the more expensive plate. It is easier and cheaper to find 0-80 screws than it is to find the 00-90 flat-head screws and nuts. It takes one fewer hands when you are not dealing with a nut. You can get everything you need at MicroMark or McMaster Carr.
Although you may have to screw around with it (literally) longer than you would like, you will eventually get there. If you spoil something, it will more likely be the reed than the plate.


Different long splices for different captains!

Hope this helps.

Vern

----- Original Message ----- From: "Harvey Berman" <cscharp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 11:07 PM
Subject: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws



Thanks for the tip for breaking the weld with a reed wrench. I partially drilled, and then punched the rest of it. That part came out OK, though your way would be easier. My problem is that the hole is not centered in the slot. It is offset .0045 in. to the right. It looks like all the welds on my Suzuki are done the same way. I do not understand why they did that. You are right about the Honda Reed, and that is what I did. I shaved it to a beautiful fit in the slot, but is was offset.


Smo Joe says to walk the reed with a punch. I will try that with a scrap plate. The way it is now, I have a .006 inch gap on the left side of the reed. Since I like to have a clearance of .0015 I have to either shave or walk the reed over .045 or shave a bigger reed that amount.

As for the 00-90 screw question, the ones I have found are rather expensive. Smallparts .com wants $15 for a pack of ten. I use 0-80, which I get from Fastener Express (www.fastener-express.com). They are only $3.00 for 100 screws. They do have the 00-90 brass nuts which are $6.30 for 50. I like the 0-80 screws better than the 00-90 anyway. I drill and tap the reed plate, and screw the reed in from the front and do not use a nut. The 0-80s are much easier to work with, and the nice taper centers the reed nicely. If the reed hole or plate hole is slightly off center, then I put the screw in from the back, and use a 0-80 nut. It is a little big, but it works ok.

Harvey Berman

Brendan Power wrote:

The way to proceed is to first remove the old reed with a reed wrench.
Simply twist the wrench to the side and the weld will break off. Clean
up the place where it sat on the reed.
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