Re: [Harp-L] Solder on reeds to lower pitch



Lead-free solder is an unnecessary precaution because there is no mechanism for you to ingest the solder from a harmonica reed. Cooking utensils or copper pipes are another matter. Ordinary lead-bearing solder will have a lower melting temperature and be easier to work with. Not only that, but lead is more dense than tin so you get more weight per volume of solder applied.

I slip a piece of paper under the reed to keep the flux and solder off of the reedplate and to support the reed.

I use a flat toothpick to aparingly paint a very thin layer of paste flux on the reed where I wish the solder to stick. I stay away from the edges of the reed. The little, battery-powered, "cold" soldering tools are very easy to handle and can do a good job on a reed.

If you use a small soldering iron, melt a small drop of solder on the tip and touch it briefly to the center of the fluxed area. You will see the solder quickly flow out to the edges of the fluxed area.

If the solder stands up in a round glob, it has not adhered to the reed and might come off. If the solder has thin, feathered edges, it has adhered to the reed and will never come loose.

After the soldering is finished on all reeds, wash the reedplate in turpentine to remove the flux and then in alcohol or hot water with some detergent to remove the turpentine.

Brass/bronze reed material is work-hardened by cold-rolling. This breaks down the grain structure of the metal. Ordinary soldering temperatures (as with a soldering iron) will not get the metal hot enough to allow large grains to re-form. However, don't use a torch! Copper alloys are not hardened with dissolved carbon as is steel so the same tempering mechanisms do not apply.

Vern
Visit my harmonica website www.Hands-Free-Chromatic.7p.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Blunt White" <playharp@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: [Harp-L] Solder on reeds to lower pitch



Greetings - looking for some advice on using solder to lower reed pitch, I am going from an E to a D (a whole tone on hole 1) to build a Lee Oskar Blues Tuning on a E harp as used by Carlos del Junco on B Thing. I have been experimenting on some old reed plates and the technique doesn't seem too difficult. I am using lead free, silver bearing solder (96% tin and 4% silver) and it seems to stick well and lowers the pitch as advertised. My biggest concern is how long will the solder stay put? I have picked at it and sanded it off and it really seems to want to stick. Can't say I am excited about the prospect of it breaking off. I am interested in hearing your advice. Will the solder stay put? Does the heat affect reed strength?

I have built other Lee Oskar Blues Tuned harps by transplanting a hole 1 blow reed using a machine screw and nut (the solder will be easier and much faster).

Thank you!

Regards,
Blunt White
Banker by day, Bluesman by night

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