Re: [Harp-L] Soldering Reeds



That sounds like JB-Weld

I use an epoxy compound with metal filings to "pot-in" 5/8 switchcraft
conectors in my Bullet microphones.  I use a drill and tap to machine a
recepticle for a set-screw and a solder lug for the ground return connection
on the cartridge.  The hole is from the flange inside the shell into the
connector and makes the electrical connection to the shell, and the body of
the connector. The epoxy fills the cavity, and also a bead on the connector
end that protrudes into the inside cavity makes it solid inside and out.
The set-screw makes the electrical connection solid.

My mic's honk!

I wonder if this Loctite stuff would make it easier to mount connectors?

PEACE
Scott
Believe in Magic!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zombor Kovacs" <zrkovacs@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: [Harp-L] Soldering Reeds


> Loctite has different kind of steel filled epoxies.
> Although Im working for Loctite, I have never tried
> using epoxy for reed tuning. However I can recommend
> some of them if somebody wants to try. All of these
> contain steel powder, they are for metal repair, so
> you just go and buy it, no need to buy powder
> separately.
> The availability of the types in the US can be
> different from Europe. These glues are usually sold in
> hardware stores, screw/bold shops, or probably tool
> shops.
>
> First I would go for the most frequent one - Loctite
> 3450, which comes in a 25ml twin syringe. The working
> life is 4-6 minutes. After this it starts curing. Cure
> time is about 30 minutes.
>
>
> Others:
>
> Loctite 3462
> working life mixed: 3 minutes
> cure time at room temp.: 10 minutes
>
> Loctite 3473
> working life mixed: 8 minutes
> cure time at room temp.: 30 minutes
>
> You can download their tech datasheets from
>
> http://65.213.72.112/tds5/search.asp?language=en
>
> and search for photos on google.
>
> The disadvantage compared to soldering is that it is
> much slower. Also if you are bonding, a basic rule is
> to clean the surfaces to be bonded. We usually use
> Loctite 7063 which is a solvent based cleaning spray,
> but fine sandpaper and alcohol should be fine. I would
> recommend sandpaper also, because it roughens the
> surfaces, and the glue will stick better.
> Personally I would rather use soldering, but
> I have sometimes used instand adhesives, like Loctite
> 401 with Loctite 7455 activator to make it cure fast.
> There are several ways. I would think soldering is the
> safest if we dont want anything in our lungs. I am not
> saying adhesives dont stick (this is my job) but if
> you dont clean the surfaces and dont have the right
> glue, nobody knows the result for sure. I have
> automotive customers mostly and they usually test a
> glue before using them in mass production (vibration
> tests, humidity tests, mechanical shear, compressive,
> tensile strength tests, heat tests etc.) only after
> these use them. So the tests is up to everybody
> whoever wants to try, I just mentioned a few things to
> consider. An adhesive can work very well, but one
> needs to find the right one, AND use it correctly. So
> good luck, if you have questions I can answer I will
> try, but as I said, I have not tuned a reed with epoxy
> and have not made tests. ALso one more thing. WIth
> epoxies it is essential that you mix them VERY well.
> THe reason is that especially the hardener is "not
> very healthy" to put it this way, and we dont want
> that in our bodies. So if you are using epoxies
> remember to mix the two components thoroughly so all
> of it cures through homogenously.
> Instant adhesives (cyanoacrylates) are much more
> harmless, the problem with them is that they are not
> heavy enough, so they dont add enough mass to the
> reed.
> But if you only need a bit of retuning or altering in
> pitch, they can be okay.
>
> best regards
>
> Zombor
> www.zovax.atw.hu
>
>
>
>
> --- MLeFree <mlefree@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > Matt Smart writes:
> > > I am about to attempt to solder reeds to make a
> > low C.  I have never
> > > soldered before. I usually just file the reeds.
> > Can anyone offer
> > > tips/instructions? thanks
> >
> > Matt and all, I tried soldering and even though I
> > have a good deal of
> > experience in soldering electronics and jewelry,
> > discarded it in favor of
> > Pat Missin's preferred method: brass powder mixed
> > with an epoxy resin into a
> > paste. The trick is finding the brass powder, as the
> > techique is not only
> > very easy and convenient to use but it has many
> > other desireable attributes.
> >
> > I can place the right amount of paste more precisely
> > and I have much better
> > control when sanding it as I tune the reed than I do
> > with solder. It's also
> > very convenient in the sense that if you don't like
> > your result, you can
> > gingerly flick the chunk of hardened brass
> > powder/epoxy mixture right off
> > the reed with an Exacto knife, leaving a perfectly
> > clean and undamaged reed
> > surface. There's also the advantage of not having to
> > use heat that may or
> > may not effect the temper of the reed. Very
> > reed-friendly by any comparison
> > with soldering.
> >
> > Check out Pat's "Altered States" web site for the
> > details, And Oh, yeah. You
> > can find brass powder at sculptor supply houses. A
> > little jar of it runs a
> > few bucks and it will go a long way, enabling you to
> > non-destructively tune
> > a virtually unlimited number of reeds.
> >
> > Works for me. And Pat Missin.  ;^)
> >
> > Michelle
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
> > Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx
> > http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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