Re: RE: [Harp-L] Soldering Reeds



If the glue is fully cured, it is simply a type of
plastic. Instant adhesives (super glues) are even used
in medical applications. When cured, they are
completely harmless. The problem with epoxies is that
they are two component systems, and if you dont mix
them well, the remainder of each component is harmful.
But if mixed well and cured, it is just another type
of plastic.
Another problem is that if you dont clean the reed
surface and the glue added separates, it ends up in
your lung, which is probably not something we want.
Soldering tin is much less likely to separate, at
least I believe so. It only contains 90+ % lead. So?
Which is better? 

Zombor
www.zovax.atw.hu


--- yumpin_yimminie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

> Regarding the use of epoxy in a harmonica.  I would
> worry about the deterious corrosive effects of epoxy
> on the respiratory system or in the mouth.   An
> acquaintance of mine who is an engineer with a race
> car team made no small deal out of messing even with
> very minute quantities of epoxies and super glues. 
> 
> Have a Great Day,
> Jim
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: MLeFree <mlefree@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Monday, April 9, 2007 22:06
> Subject: RE: [Harp-L] Soldering Reeds
> To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> > Matt Smart writes:
> > > I am about to attempt to solder reeds to make a
> low C.  I 
> > have never
> > > soldered before. I usually just file the reeds. 
> Can 
> > anyone offer
> > > tips/instructions? thanks
> > 
> > Matt and all, I tried soldering and even though I
> have a good 
> > deal of
> > experience in soldering electronics and jewelry,
> discarded it in 
> > favor of
> > Pat Missin's preferred method: brass powder mixed
> with an epoxy 
> > resin into a
> > paste. The trick is finding the brass powder, as
> the techique is 
> > not only
> > very easy and convenient to use but it has many
> other desireable 
> > attributes.
> > I can place the right amount of paste more
> precisely and I have 
> > much better
> > control when sanding it as I tune the reed than I
> do with 
> > solder. It's also
> > very convenient in the sense that if you don't
> like your result, 
> > you can
> > gingerly flick the chunk of hardened brass
> powder/epoxy mixture 
> > right off
> > the reed with an Exacto knife, leaving a perfectly
> clean and 
> > undamaged reed
> > surface. There's also the advantage of not having
> to use heat 
> > that may or
> > may not effect the temper of the reed. Very
> reed-friendly by any 
> > comparisonwith soldering.
> > 
> > Check out Pat's "Altered States" web site for the
> details, And 
> > Oh, yeah. You
> > can find brass powder at sculptor supply houses. A
> little jar of 
> > it runs a
> > few bucks and it will go a long way, enabling you
> to non-
> > destructively tune
> > a virtually unlimited number of reeds.
> > 
> > Works for me. And Pat Missin.  ;^)
> > 
> > Michelle
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
> > Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx
> > http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
> Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx
> http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos? 
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/




This archive was generated by a fusion of Pipermail 0.09 (Mailman edition) and MHonArc 2.6.8.